The Sewing Machine Doctor

Overlockers & Cover Stitch Machines

Thu, 03 May 2018 01:29:00 GMT

Choosing the Right Overclocker for You

Overlockers make hemming a breeze. How do you know what one is right for you? Our guide will help you learn the basics. For a personalised recommendation, talk to our team at The Sewing Machine Doctor today.

Standard Overlocker/Serger

Usually 3 or 4 thread. Usually in a combination of 2 needles forming a mock safety stitch (appears as a straight stitch from above) with an upper and lower looper. However, some machines have 5 threads in a combination of 3-thread overlock (one needle, two looper) and 2-thread chainstitch
Some older 4 threads have a combination described as 2/4. This is a 2-thread chainstitch with an independent 2-thread overedge
Some more recent machines have different feet available for functions, such as blind hemming and elastication
All incorporate a trimming knife to cut raw edges
More recent machines have easily moved parts to enable swift set-up for narrow or rolled hemming
Good for most home seamstresses

Cover Stitch Overlocker/Serger

Can have space for up to 8 threads with several variations, but normally a 5-thread machine
Has most of the features above with the addition of Coverstitch (flat overlock stitch found on t-shirts, windcheaters, hoodies, etc.)
Extremely versatile with many different options, but can be complex to set up
Can feature automatic tensions, as well as some aids for threading
Often larger and heavier, but this helps hold them down at high speed
Recommended for advanced sewers or home-based businesses

Sewing Machines

Thu, 03 May 2018 01:19:00 GMT

Are you looking for a new sewing machine? Maybe it’s your first or you need a basic model for the odd job. Find the best sewing machine to suit your abilities and needs in our guide!

Basic Mechanical Sewing Machine Features

Good for beginners or the occasional user.
Often lightweight and easily portable.
Basic buttonholing. Either manual or 4-step self measure.
Often have front load bobbin case (manually inserted).
Limited stitch range, up to 20 functions but often less than 15.
Limited versatility, often has pre-set stitch widths for most utility stitches. Limited extra feetavailable.

Advanced Mechanical Sewing Machine Features

Recommended for those who like to make some of their own clothes or have a limited budget but require a solid, reliable machine.
Often lightweight and portable.
Good range of practical stitches with good stretch sewing options. Usually 15 plus stitches.
Frequently have an advanced bobbin set-up, forgiving of small mistakes in set up.
Full mechanical control over stitch variations.
Can have different speed settings with either hi/lo switches or a knob on the machine.
Usually has 1 step auto measuring buttonholes.
Usually have pressure adjustments for presser foot.
Often has a wider range of accessories or feet available.
Easily serviced with more likelihood of long-term parts availability.

Electronic & Computerised Sewing Machine Features

Recommended for serious sewers, patch workers and craft addicts.
A little heavier than mechanical machines. Holds the table well.
Have electronic motors and/or foot controls. More control and greater speed control sensitivity.
Usually have excellent ranges of both practical and decorative stitches—at least 30 but up to 250.
Reliable thread tension and bobbin set-up.
Electronic controls offer accurate set-up and greater versatility.
Often have a number of different buttonhole programs.
High-end machines offer alphabets, with many including different fonts.
Most have full pressure adjustments on presser foot.
Usually supplied with a comprehensive range of feet.
Will often have in-built suggested settings for each stitch.
Some come with knee lift for pressure foot for quicker turns.
Most feature one-touch needle up/down buttons and some form of automatic lock-off stitch.
Some models have flat beds with good space to the right, ideal for patch workers and
quilters.

Embroidery Machine Features

Recommended for those who want the whole package.
Larger and heavier. Easily transported with a roller case.
Fully electronic, usually top specification equipment and electronics.
Excellent range of built-in stitches in most cases, with many having good in-built embroidery patterns as well.
Multi buttonhole, darning and other automatic functions.
Frequently have large touch screens for easy stitch selection and information.
Usually have in-built instructions and troubleshooting guides.
Updates frequently available with manufacturers often providing yearly improvements.
Depending on model, embroidery might range from 100x100mm up to 360x240mm. However, this seems to increase every year.
Usually have full range of feet for most functions.
Most have auto-thread cutters. Needle up, down and pivot features. Many have knee lifters. Most have low bobbin sensors. All have thread break sensors.
Some have side motion in normal stitching for oversized stitching.
All have fully automatic thread tensions with the option of override if necessary for difficult fabrics.
Many are now connectable to PCs for updates and download of different embroidery patterns.

Sewing Machine Needles

Thu, 03 May 2018 00:59:00 GMT

Types of needles:

Universal needle
Embroidery needle
Metallic needle
TopStitch needle
Microtex needle
Jeans needle
Quilting needle
Embroidery spring needle
HemStitch needle
Twin & triple needles

Want more information? Download our PDF for more information about different types of sewing machine needles.

Replace your needle. It’s the easiest way to improve your stitch quality.

The Sewing Machine Doctor recommends and sells Schmetz sewing machine needles. Schmetz has been producing superior-quality, German-engineered needles since 1951. These needles work with all new, current and older household sewing machines.

The most common needle is the 130/705 H

130/705 H needles are equivalent to 15×1 H needles (Japanese) and 2020 (Singer). Household sewing machines require a needle with a flattened shank. All needles in this system have a flattened shank for perfect positioning in the needle bar in relation to the hook.

How Long Does a Sewing Machine Needle Last

One of our most frequently asked questions is also one often put to Horst Gruchow, technical service manager from Schmetz.
The question Horst is so often asked during his years of travelling and giving needle seminars to the apparel industry, is one of the hardest to answer.

How long does a sewing machine needle last?

Interestingly enough, people from the shoe and leather industry, where they really put wear and tear on the needle, never ask him this question.

Generally, Horst’s answer is this: “Between one minute and one month.”

The Story of the Domestic Sewing Machine Needle

Supplied by Schmetz Servicehouse Throughout the last few years, a rapid change took place in the material and accessories market. The fabrics noticeably changed in material, composition, structure, and therefore, the requirements for their handling changed.

All industries connected with textile processing reacted and adapted their products to the new requirements. Only with the right combination of all components can a perfect sewing result be achieved.

To provide assistance for the correct needle choice, SCHMETZ published the PDFs,“Needles for Household Sewing Machines,” and “Schmetz ABC of Sewing Machine Embroidery Needles.”

The development of the needle through history

The needle was one of humankind’s first tools. Over the centuries, it developed from a simple craft item to the precision tool for sewing machines. The most ancient sewing needles (28,000 BC) had a split end, which gripped the thread to be sewn (often raffia, gut or sinew).
Needles from later than 17,500 BC, amazingly enough, already had the two characteristic features of the hand-sewing needle of today; the eye at one end and the tapered point at the other end.

The needle in modern times

The invention of the sewing machine gave rise to the development of the sewing machine needle. From 1755, different needle forms were developed that are still in use today. Around 1800, B. Krems (from Mayen, Germany) used, for the first time, a needle that had the eye close to the point. This eye-point needle paved the way for the mechanisation of sewing worldwide. Through further improvements of the simple hand-sewing needle, the precision tool sewing machine needle was developed.

In the year 1953, the metric size designation was determined, for which the abbreviation NM was introduced. This ‘number metric’ indicates the diameter of the needle blade in hundredths of a millimetre, measured above the scarf or the short groove, but not at any reinforced part of the blade. A sewing machine needle with a blade diameter of 0.80mm therefore corresponds to NM 80.

Description & manufacture of the sewing machine needle

A sewing machine needle consists of these elements:

Shank: There are round shanks and flat shanks.

Blade with groove: The groove guides the needle thread to the eye. The diameter of the used thread should have maximum of 40% of the needle’s thickness.

Scarf: It supports the hook to pick up the sewing thread loop.

Point and Eye: The point shape is relevant for the application of the sewing machine needle.

A Schmetz sewing machine needle passes through up to 35 stages of production. After each production stage there is a semi or fully automated check. The single processes are permanently optimised by the use of innovative technologies.

Needle systems for the household sewing machine

The most used needle system for household machines is 130/705 H (H=Hohlkehle in German means scarf). All needles of system 130/705 H have a flattened shank for perfect positioning of the needle in the needle bar and in relation to the point of the hook. The needles differ in size, point shape and eye. The groove is adapted to the needle size and guarantees the friction-free guidance of the thread through the material. The scarf supports the hook to pick up the needle thread loop correctly.

Selection of the correct needle size and point shape is a big influence on the sewing results.

The choice of the optimum needle depends on the material to be sewn, its thickness and the intended sewing process (sewing, topstitching, embroidering, etc.).
Product Information © SCHMETZ

Why Your Embroidery Machine Needs Servicing

Thu, 03 May 2018 00:56:00 GMT

Many who own an embroidery machine may be unaware of some differences when your machine is doing embroidery but not normal sewing functions.

More than you ever imagined…

Domestic embroidery machines have been with us now for close to 20 years, but only within the last 5 years has the true potential of these machines begun to be tapped. With the rise of the internet, plus the rapid advances of technology in sewing machines, we are seeing these machines being used far more than first imagined when Singer and Janome released embroidery machines. This has placed stresses on these machines that need to be acknowledged and monitored as part of a normal service regime. Thirty years ago, it was normal for a machine to be used for around 2 hours a week. This was usually in a stop/start fashion, and garment construction typically involved short bursts on the machine. For most home sewers, this is probably still the case, with domestic machines used a little less in favour of some functions that can be performed with an overlocker.

Are you a serious embroidery addict?

An embroidery machine can be working up to 6 hours a day for a serious addict. For instance, when an embroidery machine is sewing a design in 1 colour using 25,000 stitches, it’s equivalent to sewing 625 metres in one direction without stopping. This places considerable stress on the mechanical part of the machine and creates wear in the thread handling areas. There will also be a build-up of thread dust, fabric fibres and little bits of stabiliser that can foul a mechanism. Therefore, it is vitally important that embroidery machines are regularly serviced (at least every 12 months). If a large amount of work is done with the machine (more than 10 hours a week), then a 6 monthly cycle is recommended.

What happens when it’s not serviced regularly?

We have seen the results of embroidery machines that are not serviced regularly—it’s not pretty. Lack of lubrication leads to failure of main shafts in some embroidery machines and increased noise in many machines. Build-up of lint damages tension units, and general wear can lead to multiple parts replacement in others.

In most cases, these problems are avoidable with regular service. A hook damaged by 3 years of sewing without a service can cost as much as $250 to replace. With a yearly service, this could have been repaired without the need for replacement.

Most lubrication problems will be dealt with by preventative maintenance. If your machine seizes up, a lot more will need to be done that would not have happened if the embroidery machine had regular services.

You have invested a lot of money in your hobby. Keeping your embroidery machine going for as long as possible requires a little bit of ongoing investment. Remember, prevention is better than the cure.

What do I do if my sewing machine doesn’t work?

Thu, 03 May 2018 00:49:00 GMT

Don’t panic. Close your eyes. Breathe. Grab a cuppa. Sit down. Then, follow our checklist below.

Is the machine threaded correctly?
Is the foot up when you thread?
Has the needle recently been replaced?
Is the needle inserted correctly? Is it fully up in the clamp?
Is the needle the correct one for the fabric? Is it the right size?
Is the thread the same top and bottom?
Is the bobbin damaged?
Is the bobbin the right one? Is it in the right way?
Is the thread good quality?
How long has it been since the last service?

If you have tried all the above and your machine is still causing you grief,call our team at The Sewing Machine Doctor now.

Here’s what you’ll need to bring if your sewing machine or overlocker needs to come in for a service or repair.

Cord & foot control (please put it in a bag if it is loose)
Accessory tray
Embroidery unit
Carry case or cover (important for protection)
A list of areas you need looked at, if applicable
An embroidery card, floppy or USB stick
Zig Zag, embroidery & buttonhole feet
Samples of any problems experienced

Sewing Machine Safety Tips

Thu, 03 May 2018 00:46:00 GMT

Always unplug your machine when away from it for extended periods of time. If you are unable to get to the wall plug, at least turn it off at the main machine switch. Lightning or power surges can cause damage to machines that are left on. Also, your sewing light, when left on, can generate considerable heat. Consider little fingers can also play havoc with your machine if it is unattended. This can have quite devastating consequences.

Consider using a surge protector or power guard with any electronic sewing machine. A power surge or brownout can shorten your electronic circuit’s life, leading to expensive repairs. We can supply good-quality surge protectors at a reasonable price to help give you peace of mind.
Try to arrange your cords so they cannot be snagged while walking past. We see at least one machine a month that has fallen off a table by being dragged by the cord. If at all possible, cords should be arranged to the rear of the machine, with the foot control placed under the table.
Always wear footwear. While it may feel comfortable to sew in bare feet, consider the consequences if your foot controller was to suddenly break. Electrical shocks can be avoided with footwear.
Provide a stable and, if possible, soft sewing surface, like a carpet tile. This will help to cut noise levels. Excessive vibration can also shorten bulb life.
Have your machine maintained by a trusted technician, at least every 2 years. A good technician will inspect your machine thoroughly and be able to arrest many faults well before you even know about them.
When not in use, store your machine in a dry location. Try to avoid covering it with anything that can ‘sweat’, as moisture build-up can lead to expensive damage.

Caring For Your Machine

Thu, 03 May 2018 00:35:00 GMT

Like the doctor says, prevention is better than the cure.

At The Sewing Machine Doctor, most of the sewing machine problems we encounter can be traced to poor general maintenance or neglect. But with some simple tools and just a few minutes daily, weekly or monthly—depending on how much you’re sewing—you can help keep your machine running smoothly.

Here is our guide for sewing machine care to help keep you and your machine happy and out of our clinic (repair shop).

Keep It Covered

While not in use, keep a cover over your machine. It’s very important for electronic machines in particular to keep dust out.

If storing your machine away, try to keep it somewhere dry and free of insects. Moisture can play havoc with the moving parts of your machine, as can the tiny feet of insects across circuit boards.
Switch your machine off at the wall or unplug the supply cord if not in use. Power surges are a real threat in Queensland, and even small surges can have major impacts that your insurance policy will not cover.

Change Your Needles Often

We recommend you change needles every 4 hours or second garment. A bent or blunt needle will lead to skipped stitches, poor tension or even damaged fabric. In some cases, it can even do costly damage to your machine.
Always use the appropriate needle for the fabric. Sharps are best for wovens, universal for synthetics and stretch ballpoints for stretch. There are a myriad of other needles available, which we are happy to assist you with.
Remember, although the needle is one of the least expensive parts of your project, strangely enough, it is highly likely to be one of the two most common wreckers of it. Don’t risk an old needle.

Wind Bobbins Correctly

There is no such thing as a generic bobbin. Always use the bobbin your manufacturer recommends for your machine.
We recommend a good supply of bobbins. Try to avoid winding over existing thread as this can create tails, which can jam your machine. If you have a low bobbin sensor, this will not work if you have overwound thread.
Do not use damaged or rusty bobbins. These are likely to ‘drag’ and give poor tension.
We do not recommend using pre-wound bobbins unless they are of a type endorsed by the maker of your machine. Pre-wound bobbins can foul mechanisms, and will often confuse low bobbin sensors.

Regular Cleaning is Essential

It is a good idea to know how to clean your machine. If kept clean, your machine is less likely to require major work when it comes time for a service
Refer to your instruction manual to get basic information on the care and cleaning of your machine.

Thread Matters

The least expensive part of your project is likely to be your thread. Unfortunately, this is where people try to save money! Poor-quality thread can lead to many problems, some of which can have expensive, long-term impacts.
Poor thread = poor stitch quality. Many tension problems are often due to the effects of poor-quality thread.
Poor-quality thread leaves behind lint and dust. This can build up in your tension, bobbin case and thread guides. This also leads to inconsistent thread travel and stitches. More seriously, it can also create mechanical problems by soaking up lubrication, effectively running your machine dry. Lint and fabric dust can also foul gears and work its way into bearings and shafts. These are often expensive faults to fix.
Many people own machines with auto or electronic tensions. These are only as accurate as the thread is consistent. If you use a cheap thread, it will be inconsistent in its thickness. Accurate tension adjustment is just not reliable with poor thread.
Threads older than 5 years—particularly natural fibres, such as 100% cotton—can be weakened. I recommend they not be used as they can break and end up leaving bits of thread in the mechanism of your machine. In some cases, they can also leave moisture in your machine tension and thread guides, which can create a small rust trail. Note: This is particularly true on the Sunshine Coast!

Protecting Your Investment

If you have a computerised or electronic machine, I strongly recommend using a surge cube or protector. This will help to protect against surges, storm damage and brownouts (low-voltage troughs). Electronic circuitry can be costly to repair, and while this is no guarantee your computer won’t fail, it will provide protection in many situations. In fact, any sensitive electronic equipment you have, such as computer, large TVs and the like, should be also be protected. Please note, these do not perform the same role as a safety switch.
Regular service is important. Your machine should be serviced yearly to keep lubrication fluid and the various mechanical settings accurate. Regular service will often detect developing problems and nip them in the bud before they become expensive repairs. By the time your machine starts to clank like a tractor, it’s often too late to avoid part replacement.
Take advantage of lessons offered by your retailer. This will give you important information relevant to your machines. Many faults we encounter are avoidable.

Attend a Class on ‘Caring for Your Machine’

We periodically run classes on caring for your machine. If you’d like to attend a session, please leave your details with us so we can contact you when the next one is scheduled. There is a small charge for these classes.

Happy sewing!

Your Brand New Overlocker

Thu, 03 May 2018 00:25:00 GMT

You’ve looked and looked, tried and tested and finally made the decision. Your brand new overlocker is ready to take pride of place in the sewing room, right next to the freshly cut out project it will take on tomorrow.

Before throwing yourself enthusiastically into the delights your new friend promises, let’s look at some do’s and don’ts for your new purchase. A little time invested now on some basic things and you may just save yourself some grief a little further down the track.

Do’s

Do start with 4 threads. Always use 4 threads of the same type or denier (thickness). I also recommend you rotate your thread every now and then. The loopers user roughly 5 metres of thread to every metre the needle uses. This will help you to use all spools up at around the same time. If you won’t use much thread, buy smaller spools. Thread can, and will, dry out as is it gets old. A life span of around 5 years is the most you will get out of most threads.

Do use cone holders on the inside of the large cones of thread. This keeps them stable. However, remove them when you are using smaller reels or spools of thread.

Do take up all offers of tuition your dealer offers. You may know how to sew, you may have used an overlocker for years, but we can guarantee your new machine will have features and idiosyncrasies that will trip you up unless you are shown them. Remember, user error is not covered in any warranty, and some mistakes on overlockers can be very expensive. Make the time to watch DVDs and read support books provided with your machine.

Do replace your needles regularly with the exact needle specified. If you are unsure, refer to your book, print out the label with this information and fix it to the machine. Many overlocker problems are caused in the first instance by the wrong needle. Remember, both needles must be replaced together, even if only one has broken or bent.

Do have your pride and joy regularly serviced. Every 12 to 24 months is the recommendation. This enables your technician to nip any problems in the bud before they require expensive parts.

Don’ts

Don’t throw away your box. Your box and the associated packing materials are the best protection for your machine in transit. Overlockers have some fiddly bits on their exterior that are easily broken.

Don’t thread your machine out of sequence. All overlockers have a specific sequence they must thread in. As a rule of thumb, the loopers should be threaded before the needles. If one of the looper threads breaks, remove the thread from the eyes of the needles prior to rethreading the looper. This will save you a lot of frustration and grief.

Don’t assume the worst if your overlocker starts to sew poorly. Make a checklist of threading, replacing needles and basic checks. Many times, it is a basic thing, like a missed thread guide, that creates a problem.

Don’t cut pins with your knives. Knives are expensive and must be replaced when this happens. Pin laterally or remember to pull them out as they approach the machine. We are happy to sell you a supply of knives, however we would rather you didn’t have the frustration.

Most of all… Do enjoy the many hours of sewing your machine will give you by following these basic do’s and don’ts. Overlockers are an invaluable time saver in sewing and in the right hands, can produce a fabric work of art.

Your Brand New Sewing Machine

Thu, 03 May 2018 00:12:00 GMT

It’s home and ready to go—your brand new sewing machine. You finally traded in the heirloom that had seen you right for so many years. Or maybe this is your first sewing machine.

Before you get started, we would like to share a few things with you, so you can make the most of your brand new sewing machine, and keep it in top-top condition for many years to come.

The Sewing Machine Doctor’s Top 7 Tips to Happy Sewing

Make yourself a nice cup of tea or coffee, sit down somewhere comfortable where you can concentrate, and take the time to read your instruction book. Hidden within this manual is vital information that is often overlooked, which can lead to avoidable and potentially expensive repairs.

A good-quality surge protector will safeguard your electronic, computerised or embroidery machine. We can supply one to you, or you can also find them at high-end electronic stores or from electrical suppliers. Surge protectors can also be fitted to your home meter box. Unexpected power surges, brownouts or blackouts are fairly common on the Sunshine Coast. These annoying interruptions, day or night, can wreak havoc with electrical appliances, as well as dramatically shorten the life of your sewing machine. A few dollars spent in prevention may save you literally hundreds of dollars in repairs.
Make sure you have an understanding and a supply of the recommended brand of needles for your machine. While sewing machine needles appear to fit all machines, your manufacturer will recommend a specific brand/class of needle. We recommend following this as closely as possible.
Do you have enough bobbins for your machine? Many machines will only supply four or five bobbins. We recommend you have a good supply so you won’t ever need to wind new threads over old colours. This can get messy and can also lead to mechanical problems.
Use young threads. It doesn’t matter how automatic your thread tension is, if you have a 15-year-old ‘no-name’ thread flowing through it, your stitch will be poor. There is no substitute for quality when it comes to thread

Learn the oiling points of your machine, and where you need to clean it. Take up any lessons offered by your retailer, and ask how to clean/lubricate your machine.

Familiarise yourself with the different feet that come with your machine. Incorrect foot selection can give a very poor stitch. Each foot has a purpose. They are rarely interchangeable.
Make sure your machine is threaded correctly. It will likely vary from what you are used to. Misthreading can damage your sewing badly. Learn how to correctly wind up and set your bobbin.

Most importantly, enjoy your sewing machine. If you look after it with these few basic tips, have it serviced regularly and keep it covered or in its case while it’s not in use, you will get many hours of enjoyment from your new sewing machine.

Happy sewing!

Getting Started With Your New Sewing Machine

Wed, 02 May 2018 23:51:00 GMT

In this post, we’ll look at a few simple things you should do when you get a new machine.

Your Instruction Book

Your machine will come with an instruction manual, which, if it is one from the larger brands, will be quite comprehensive. Reading a manual might not be everyone’s priority, however, a few minutes looking at some important items may save you a lot of time and expense later. In the first few pages, you’ll find a diagram identifying the parts of their machine with their correct names. This can be important if you need to talk to the retailer or a technician later. Using the correct names for parts of the machine will get faster answers to your questions, so familiarity with them avoids confusion.

Keep Your Info Together

Right, now that you have read the basics, put the book somewhere you’ll be able to find it quickly. We recommend also stapling or taping your purchase receipt and/or warranty card onto the book and putting it into a ziplock bag. In this bag, you should also put any other relevant information on the machine as the years go by, such as service dockets and so forth. This will make it easy to lay your hands on it when needed.

Now to the Fun Stuff!

Pull out some scrap fabric out and play with the machine for half an hour or so. Get to know the stitches and what gives you the best results for what you want to do. Alter stitch lengths and widths, try the buttonhole and generally experiment. Get to know what it feels like and what it sounds like. Knowing this will alert you later to potential problems before they become serious, as different sounds can be your earliest indication of a problem. Wind a couple of bobbins and try the different buttons.

Get comfortable with your machine! This is the time to work out what you need to ask when you have a lesson. Write down your queries to ask your dealer or tutor.

There will also be a diagram showing threading. With all machines, it is vital to be precise with threading, so look at any specific instructions. Most machines thread in a similar way but all they all have their own little idiosyncrasies.

Sewing Needles

Identify the recommended needle for your machine. In most cases, you will require a standard domestic needle, however, your manufacturer may recommend a specific brand or class. This can be important, especially for overlockers. For more information, see our article on sewing machine and overlocker needles. Finally, when you feel like you know how to work with ease, get started on your first project. It should start working for you like a dream. After all, any mistakes you make should happen when you are testing, and therefore your projects should be free from errors.
Happy sewing!